Festive skeletons (Catrinas) are on display (photos: Michelle da Silva Richmond) |
November
1, El Dia de los Muertos (Day of the
Dead) is a national holiday in Mexico, a country with roots deeply entrenched
in ancient Indian and colonial Spanish cultures. Throughout the country
residents are preparing for the traditional festivities, which date back to
pre-Hispanic times.
For reasons obliterated by time, the souls of the dead were supposed to revisit their homes on this evening and the festival slowly acquired a sinister significance. Witches, ghosts, demons, black cats and all things evil were believed to be roaming the earth. Halloween became associated with pagan rituals, probably prompting the Christian celebration of All Saints Day and All Souls Day on November 1 and 2.
In the Beginning -
In
the Aztec world, a different festival or sorts was underway. Obsessed as they
were with death, the ancient peoples of Mexico believed that it was
necessary to die in order to be born again. To guarantee this rebirth, they set
aside two months in which to honor those who had gone before them. The ninth
month of the Nahuatl calendar was
dedicated to children; the 10th to adults. During this celebration, human
sacrifices were made to insure the flow of fresh blood, so vital to
regeneration.
Graves are decorated for the occasion |
Abundant
offerings were laid beside the sacrificial stone, as young men attired in
feathers and jewels gyrated around it to the beat of Nahuatl music. Although this was basically a solemn occasion, it
was “fiesta” time in the Aztec world
and a good excuse to drink pulque (a
potent brew made from cactus).
The
evolution of the Aztec empire was cut short by the Spanish conquest and it
probably wasn’t difficult for the conquering priests to persuade the recent
converts to shift their months of the dead to a two-day celebration, known as
All Saints and All Souls Day. The meshing of pagan and Catholic rituals which resulted
formed an interesting tradition in Mexico which lingers to this day.
This
link to the past is long and not always clear but it has become a “sacred”
tradition. November 1 is set aside for the children who have died; November 2
is for adults.
Skulls and Catrinas come out of hiding |
Fiesta Time!
In
Mexico on these two days, everyone feels morally obligated to go the cemetery
to honor their dearly departed and “convivir”
(spend time) with them and in true Mexican style, a social happening takes
places.
Typical
Mexican dishes are reverently prepared and toted - along with several bottles
of the preferred drink - to the gravesite. Tombs are adorned with the flower of
the season, the pungent “tzempazuchil”
(marigolds, revered by the Aztecs) and candles and incense are laid around the
grave. Once the stage is set, the gathering begins around midnight with prayers, ending in the wee hours of
the morning with drinking and raucous toasting to the “continued good health”
of the deceased.
Though
this rowdy practice has been banned in many cemeteries, it has become a tourist
attraction in some parts of Mexico. In Mízquic, along the southern outskirts of
Mexico City and on Lake Pátzcuaro’s island of Jánitzio, in the state of Michoacán,
worship of the dead with all its pageantry is alive and well.
Colorful altars spring up everywhere |
In
many towns, the homage takes place in the home, with altars festooned with
flowers and photos of the late loved one prominently displayed. On the November
1 a large table is laid out, laden with offerings of flowers, fruit, candied
pumpkin water, toys and candles. These gifts are left out all night so that the
spirit may partake of the “essence” of the offering. The following morning, the
“leftovers” are consumed by the family, with the thought that they have shared
a meal with the missing family member.
A
hardier meal is set out on November 2 in anticipation of the adults with
additional treats, such as “pan de muerto”,
sweet, doughy bread with crossbones emblazoned on its crust, added to the menu.
Flowers, candles, incense, a bottle of tequila, if he enjoyed a nip, or a pack
of cigarettes if he smoked (even if this was what killed him) are carefully set
out for the “visitor.”
Small
death figures made of marzipan, gruesomely fashioned for the ritual are a
highlight of the feast. Skulls with the names of the living etched on them, and
skeletons decked out as brides, soccer players, musicians and beggars complete
the bizarre scene.
The original Catrina by José Guadeloupe Posada |
Mexico
City’s popular Bazaar Sábado boasts one of the best Dia de los Muertos displays, amid its delicately fashioned arts and
crafts. A brilliant display of marigolds, fiery décor and multi-colored candles
line a long table brimming with tamales,
tacos, pan de muerto, candied pumpkin and jugs of tequila and pulque.
Ghost orchestras surface |
Carved
wooden skeletons masquerading as a ghost orchestra face off with sugar skulls,
each with the name of one of the Bazaar’s employees etched into it. At the end
of the festival, the employee eats the skull bearing his name - another act of
defiance. Mexico’s fascination with death is legendary and although the
celebration is beyond the comprehension of most outsiders, the event is an
interesting one to observe. Whether this is just another excuse for a party, a
way of discharging the soul or merely a show of “machismo,” there is no doubt that death takes a holiday in Mexico
every November.
What an informative and entertaining story about the history of Day of the Dead and how it is recognized to day. I'm always fascinated by cemeteries and love learning about various customs. And your photography is beautiful, especially the catrinas.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for your comments. It truly is a fascinating custom! Glad you enjoyed the article.
DeleteI did not know that eating the treats is a way of laughing at death. Cool stuff.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much. It's a very interesting tradition! One of my favorites!
DeleteGreat article, Restless! Having lived in Mexico City for 20 years, I was privileged to experience some of the wonderful and beautiful traditions associated with the Day of the Dead. Your look into the roots and reasons for what has survived of this ancient celebration was so interesting and informative. The Mexican people have infused a solemn time with their inherent love for colorful joyous beauty.
ReplyDelete